The Lodge is slowly finishing … With some unfinished things like its name in French for instance.
17/09 Preparation
2 people: Tham and me
Weather is not fine, 80% of cloud coverage here and no view on any summit
Load is about 25 Kg per person
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50m 8mm rope, crampons, 1 ice axe, gletcher personal stuff, 4 ice screws and carabiners. 1 tent quechua 2p, altitude shoes, 1 gaz stove, 2 bottles, 1 small cooking set, 1 pieud a neige, 1 dead body,
18/09 move from Rani Pauwa to YakKarka (camp 2)
Long way up carrying everything. This could be the first Alpine style trial on YakHawa Kang South route. But the weather is not very nice. We stay at 4400m bivouacking in the sheperds staying place.
19/09 Move up to 5700 at first pass
At 03h30 it was raining, so we did not move. We have been starting at 06h30 only for a sight only. We arrived at the 5700 pass nearby the shorten around 11h00 while on 26 May starting at 5h30, in snow, I had reached the second pass at 5850-5900 around 09h30.
There is no snow at this moment. I can assume snow from Feb to 20 may and mid October to January. Without snow the 600m up move in stony hill is slow (3 steps up and 1 down). Itinerary is the same, targeting the South ridge focusing on the medium rocks on the right.
No snow on the ridge til the ridge summit above the lake at 5700. no snow on the 100m way down to the pass at 5600 (shorten). The snow starts from here til the 6110m left peak and 6000m right peak.
An alternate itinerary is to move through the hills from the YakKarka (camp 2) to the Shorten pass at 5600. this is a ENE route passing below rocky area marked at 5200m on the map. A possible camping place is at 5000m around on a possible flat area nearby the rivers collector in quadrant
319100N, 493000E / 319000N,494000E Nepal grid.
We were back at the camp at 12h50. We have been packing everything and returned to yakkharka reached at 16h00. Bivouac there.
20/09 Come down from YakKarka (camp 2)
Cloudy weather. Some rain fall at Ranipauwa in afternoon.