31/03/12 to 03/04/12: Unclimbed 6110m Summit of Purkung Himal, above Muktinath, with Erik And Andre Høivold + Me.

Photos are on picasa  6110mSummit

We have been starting from “The Paths of Dream” in Ranipauwa on 31/03 to move up to Yak Karka (4450m) with 3 porters. Objective is to try to reach the 6110m and 6195m summits in Purkun Himal area (in front of YakHawaKang).
4 hours to move up there. Camping at Karka place.
On 01/04 we start at 09h00 for the 5700m pass by the second way up (East direction in the hills to bypass the tawa pass and directly reach the first pass at 5700m).
We will reach a place (5300m) a little bit above my first camp (5000m) in the area. As one porter has headache, we do not continue further and I send them back to the village. I have found a nice camping place with snow. Another place 150m above is not so nice (not flat and snow is dirty).


On 02/04 we start at 07h00 for the 6610m summit that we will reach at 11h30. Nice view, some clouds.
I will spent some time to put Prayer flags just below this first summit.

On the way

YakHawaKang viewed from there does not seem so easy. It will be a true gletcher ascent the next time.

We will not continue til the second summit, the snow is hard and it is icy in several places (no crampons this time). We will go down at 12h30.
Resting and Sleeping at 5300m.

On 03/04 after drying tents and breakfast we go down to Yak Karka and from there to Ranipauwa that will be reached at 17h30. Everybody happy!

The map: